INTRODUCTION:

The Group of monuments at Mahabalipuram, in Tamilnadu, about  58 km from Chennai, were built by the Pallava kings in the 7th and 8th centuries. The town is said to have gained prominence under the rule of Mamalla. These monuments have been carved out of rock along the Coromandel coast. The temple town has approximately forty monuments, including the largest open-air bas-relief in the world.

THE BELIEF...

In the seventh and eighth centuries A.D. and, perhaps, even  earlier, kings of the Pallava dynasty created cave-temples, monolithic shrines, structural stone temples, and expansive relief panels carved on the open rock-face of the hillside.
Mamallapuram has more than 14 cave-temples, 9 monolithic shrines, 3 structural stone temples, and 4 relief-sculptured rock panels, all of which were created by the Pallavas in those early centuries.
The most unusual and impressive sight at Mamallapuram must surely be the so-called “penance” panel. Popularly believed to be  an artistic representation of Arjuna's penance. However, certain scholars have persuasively shown it to represent Bhagiratha's penance and the descent of the river Ganga.
Bhagiratha wished to sanctify the ashes of his ancestors with the holy water of the Ganga. This divine river was at that time confined to the heavenly realm. In order to bring her down to earth, Bhagiratha practiced severe penance. Brahma finally agreed to grant his
request, but warned Bhagiratha  that in the mighty rush of her descent, the Ganga would devastate the earth. Therefore, Bhagiratha continued his penance in order to win Siva’s protection against her terrible onslaught. For a whole year Bhagiratha remained standing on one foot with his arms upraised, his body being emaciated. Siva, pleased by Bhagiratha’s austerities, appeared and granted him his boon. It is this moment which is portrayed in the Mamallapuram panel, to the upper left of the central  cleft in the rock which divides it into two sections. The water which the Pallava engineers planned to have cascade down the cleft into a pool below would represent the Ganga reaching the earth.
All the figures, human and divine, are thus shown gravitating towards the central cleft to behold this glorious miracle of the Ganga's  descent. Between the point in the Ramayana's account where Siva grants the boon to Bhagiratha and the part in which the Ganga reaches the earth.



MAMALLAPURAM WAS DECLARED AN UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE  SITE .

It was inscribed under the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1984 as a cultural heritage under categories (i)(ii)(iii)(vi). The monuments inscribed are the Ratha Temples: Temples in the form of Chariots, Mandapas, 11 Cave sanctuaries covered with bas-reliefs, and rock relief of Descent of the Ganges, which is the largest open air Rock relief also known as Arjuna's Penance or Bhagiratha's Penance.


THE SERIES INCLUDES…

The Shore Temple is the most important structural temple at Mamallapuram. Built by the Pallava king, Rajasimha, in the early eighth century, it is picturesquely situated on the edge of a promontory jutting into the ocean. There are actually three separate shrines which form the Shore Temple complex. The Eastern and Western shrines which have high towers are dedicated to the god Siva. In between them is one dedicated to Vishnu. On the back, inner walls of the two Saivite shrines there are Somaskanda panels.
The finest examples of monolithic shrines at Mamallapuram are found in the group popularly called the “Five Rathas”
The word ‘ratha’, which means ‘chariot’ or ‘vehicle’, has been  imaginatively applied to these temples. Of these five, the so-called Draupadi Ratha is a small shrine for the goddess Durga. Her image is carved in relief on the back wall of the sanctum. Two devotees are shown kneeling at her feet. One of them is in the act of making the supreme sacrifice of cutting off his own head! That this practice actually existed in Tamilnadu is revealed elsewhere both by inscription and in literature.
The point which is absolutely  fatal to the “Arjuna's Penance” interpretation is the fact that some of the heavenly beings depicted in the panel actually have their backs to Siva as he grants the boon to the ascetic who is supposedly Arjuna. The problem vanishes, if it is the descent of the Ganga which is the center of attention of the boon granted to Bhagiratha.
There is also archeological evidence of a storage tank for water on top of the hill  just above the central cleft. Thus, at special times of celebration, water  could be let out of this tank by the Pallavas so as to produce an artificial waterfall down the central cleft and thus simulate the Ganga descending to  earth.
Having said all this, like most who have been here, I too, am amazed by ‘THE BUTTER BALL’. A natural wonder...a mystery too.

MAMALLAPURAM FROM THE ARCHIEVES.

DRAWINGS  OF M.W.CARR OF 1869.

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DAMAGES TODAY….

The Pallavas were the paramount rulers of South India holding control over the areas  spanning the present Kerala and Tamilnadu from the fourth to the end of the ninth century A.D. For a couple of centuries their rule even extended  northwards upto Karnataka and Andhra. The art produced here was not only novel at that time but also unique and extroadinary, drawing the attention of art lovers from all over the  world. While the appreciation remains a fact, the stories and history that go with it ripples itelf with a lot of dialogue. A giant wave is also said to have brought the growing beauty of the city  to a halt. This one big damage of the yesteryears still left behind for the world a monumental wonder. Sadly the damage  being so ignorantly caused today is literally corroding the shine more than the Bay of Bengal’s sea corrosion. Yes, this perhaps can be the single largest reason to steal the sharpness of the etching on the stone murals. A quick comparison of the ealier photos with that of today would justify this observation. Well the ignorant ones can create a quicker damage. These are not environmental issues to sit back and take protection saying there are no quick fix solutions. Sadly here, elephants on the rocks lose not just their tusks but their heads too. Tourists doing things that one would dare not in their own home are influencing the overseas  guests as well. In  Rome, I am directed by a simple chain to keep four feet away even to read a board, here I see enthusiastic tourists resting their feet on the very board, forget the  monument. The writing on the rocks are very clear. The papers and plastics strewn all over will stand witness. Are we taking it all for granted.
Mamal, as pride is being tested by changing times… a few more pagodas are claimed to be hiding with fear under the sea and the sands near by. Yes,nature trembles where man passes.

PHOTOS

ALL COUNTRIES EXCAVATE…IN INDIA WE CLOSE EVEN WHAT THE TSUNAMI OPENED FOR US IN 2008.

 

MASTERPLANS OF GOVERNMENTS

NEIGHBOURHOOD OPINION& IDEAS.

              “The very fact that  our kings have  provided steps and slides on these rocks means they wanted us to play here.. allow us to do that. It is just  not me and my
friends who have been sliding here, all our ancestors have been sliding  and polishing this rock for ages. It is here  that we take all our visiting  relatives  and friends.


                 “These are rocks, nothing can break. We used to be playing around here. Now I feel sad they are all fenced like prisoners.They were a part of us.We grew up here and took care of them as well.We were told that they are our Gods and that we should respect them”


                 “Even today there are places here where government does not bother or even know.. we continue to play there. We have nothing else to do. We don’t damage anthing. It is our place, but with so much of tourists around we are made to look like monkeys”


                 “I left this place some years ago… now I come here to see my parents. Life is miserable here. Crowds are  ok… but there should be some organisation and facilities. The place is becoming dirty by the hour.. no way close to the descriptions in  sangam tamil writings.”


                   “Life here for local people is slowly becoming miserable. No water and  power connections for new houses.  But I don’t know how we have so many new shops, 5 star hotels, lodges  etc.. yes they provide us employment but wages are not the same that they pay for outsiders”


                   “We want all to come and admire our village… but where is the facility for the tourists. Like our mamalla we need another king to bring back beauty here. They say a lot of bad things are happening here for the benefit of tourists.. I only hope our children do not get spoiled.”


                      “I have been here all my life. I don’t understand what is happening other than the fact commercial activity is growing by the hour. Funny we have nothing to do with it. It is for the outsiders and by the outsiders. We work like slaves for them. Tell me why does someone come all the way here to buy cashmere shawls and rajasthani toys.

                      “They have all survived this long… i’m sure these monuments will be here always. Like other temples if they are alive and we do regular pujas it will be better protected than fencing them like prisoners and giving privacy to scoundrels. It is no more the place for us.. we have lost it to the tourists. As far as we are not blamed for the damage.. we are safe”

DANGERS,THREATS AND DISTURBANCES  TODAY

The Sthalasayanam Temple,a vishnu temple ,right in the heart of the town ,is now under the HR&CE of the Tamil nadu state government.ASI is in the process of bringing the temple under its protection.It is reported that the public are opposing the move.Petitions and representations are being made to the authorities.

PETITION S AND REPRESENTATION MADE BY PUBLIC REPRESENTATIVES TO THE GOVERNMENT:

Petitions and representations that have come our way are being included here.They not our point of view.How ever they are here to help opinion makers get an idea of the scenario prevalent in the site....

PETITION-1

Sub: The Ancient Monuments and Archeological Sites and Remain ACT 2010. 

The Archeological survey of India had passed a new ordinance in the year 2010 in the parliament during zero hour .This new act affects/deny  the very basic right to live  of the people living across all states where ASI monuments are located.

The  honorable members of the Parliament were not briefed about the outcome or the reason to put out such an  act and this act was passed without discussion in the parliament.

In our district of Kancheepuram there are more than 1200 old temples.If the ASI starts taking them all over in the name of preservation ,this district will no longer be governed by Tamilnadu. It will be under the ASI.

In  our district  this act threatens the Right to live  of a few lakh  people living in

1.Kanchipuram,2.Mamallapuram,3.Sadras,4.Utriamerur,5.Manimangalam,6.Salabogam,7.Salavankuppam,8.Thiruvidhanthai 9.Thirukalikundram,10.Tirumukadal,11.Tenneri ,12. Vayalur  13.Pallavaram 14.Keezkattalai 15.Muvarasampattu 16.Chitlapakkam 17.Tirusulam 18.Nanmangalam 19.Ottiyambakkam 20.Tambaram 21.Kadapari 22.Pammal 23.Sembakkam 24.Perungallathur 25.Thirunermalai 26 Perkankaranai are facing a phased  eviction process due to the act.  This act was passed so cunningly and planned in a manner that the people would be forced to leave their homes in the next decade .The generic requirement of the present existing population has been comfortably ignored .Additional power ,water and drainage facility is  not being  extended beyond the existing period and taxes and name transfers are being stopped in the name of the act.

The ASI officials have instructed the  local officials  directly ( township, revenue, Electricty board ) to freeze any development in these areas. Instructing the local officials directly by central government officials is a show of disrespect to the state government.  The ASI has been sleeping all this while and suddenly it has woken up and has been trying to implement this new act without giving an opportunity to the people to look for alternative .The mismanagement by the ASI  has resulted in  a severe displeasure against the ruling party .

The People of the district  have been pushed to a point of uncertainty and they have  joined hands to oppose this act .In this district  several agitations including bhands and road rokos have been conducted.

ASI is looking to maintain the monuments without the  people. Though they claim that their recent ordinance has provisions for people to live within the monuments, this cannot be done practically. Implementation of the law is also very difficult. Since 2010 all the applications for renovation and reconstruction have piled up with no result. There is no solution provided to them even though the act states provisions to do so.

UNESCO also has serious reservations about displacing people and believes in a inclusive growth plan for all their sites across the globe. We can draw several examples for the same from other countries.

  India is a populated country and people cannot be displaced without considering other factors.The best solution would be for the ASI to come up with a inclusive plan with the people  without displacing people.

Tourists who visit this town spend about one hour at the monuments and the spend the rest of the day at hotels, restaurants and curio shops. This is an important support system to tourism without this the tourism in these areas will collapse.

This situation is not a problem from one town but it is a problem  all over Tamilnadu. All print and electronic media have carried this opinion ,stressing the point that the ASI should come up with an inclusive plan with the people acting as custodians to the monuments.

At Mamallapuram ASI controls 32 monuments. Out of  the 32 only 3 are the most important ones,the rest are hills and hillock areas. However if they delist only three monuments the entire town would be relived of its grievance. The Sapta kanni temple was relocated in the centre of the town in the early 70s`.The Kottikal Mandapam is a mandapam belonging to the temple. The hillock area which has no monuments. If these three monuments are de listed the most part of the grievance would be resolved. For the rest the boundaries of the ASI must stop with their fences.

Another major grievance has been Electricity .Power to existing buildings and enhancement of power to exisiting connections have been stopped.  It is not humane to deny power based on this and we plead with you sir to intervene and instruct the TNEB to start  giving power to people.

In 1947 we got our independence ,but unfortunately the people of Mamallapuram are still fighting to get their patta .Many representations and promises were made but the people are still awaiting their patta.We plead with you sir to instruct the revenue officials to issue the patta and instill confidence to the people .

Last week the Western Ghats were declared as world heritage site by the ASI.The state government of Karnataka opposed this and passed a resolution against this declaration.We hope to get similar support from the Government of Tamilnadu and help us live our lives peacefully.

ASI Claims and truth about it..

1.Regarding application for construction in the regulated area- ASI will say that the competent authority is available to request permission to build.

Answer- This authority has no authority.They have not cleared any application in the last two years.They have no detail of Mamallapuram monuments and  are not interested in giving NOC.

 2.Worship is allowed in all temples taken over by ASI:

Temples once they have been taken over they become sight seeing spots and the sanctity of the temple is lost. Does the ASI pay for the priests ??In time the priests and the pilgrims leave .

3.Why was the ASI sleeping all this while and suddenly they get up and decide to evict people in a very cunning way.

Please read the 2010 act/

4.Why cant the ASI come up with a plan with the people living in the town

They can always tell people what to do and what not to do …

World over the monuments are having people living in and around.Why is this not happening n our country.


PETITION  II

In the year 1974 they had come with a plan to preserve Mamallapuram.As per these plans ( during the emergency) they had planned to evict Mamallapuram and turn it into a museum.The town had a population of about 300 then.But for reasons known to them  this never materialized. In 2003-04 when Mr.Jagmohan was showing keen interest in Mamallapuram the same plans resurfaced and remained on the agenda for a while.Today this town has a population of about 20000 .

Since 1974 the development plans for Mamallpuram kept on shifting and no government body in Mamallpuram ( be it DTCP,ASI,CRZ,Tourism) was clear about it.But they were all united in one thing- they never permitted any buildings .The people had no where to go and no one to appeal .So they went ahead and started building in the manner best known to them in properties that belonged to them.This resulted in the  mushroom growth of this town. Even the government bodies did not coordinate their plans and each one of them took their own path.Today if one citizen of this town wants to add a toilet in his house - his request will be not even be heard by any government body. How can a town be regulated and developed if you do not allow reconstruction,alterations and to address the needs of generic requirements of a family.

In 2010 the new ordinance was passed without realizing the impact of it.Even a stone in one corner of Mamallapuram was declared a monument and the same laws applied to it as well.How can this be accepted by the experts.We are populated country and with raising land costs an ordinary citizen chooses survival over preservation.The whole town of Mamallapuram is about 3 sq  km ( east west and 3 km north south).In this area ASI has 32 monuments and the entire town falls within the regulated or prohibited areas.

ASI has banned new electrical connections and freeze development in these areas using the 2010 ordinance.So what  can  a citizen like myself living in the prohibited area for the past 10 generations do ? .If I go to the TNEB or to the DTCP ( in case of repairs or reconstruction of roof etc) ,they want an NOC from ASI.I go to the ASI they direct me to the competent authority.The competent authority  turn me down stating that I am in the prohibited area.So what is the solution for me.My ancestry is equally important to me .What was the ASI thinking when they framed this law.I am not living in their property and have been paying my dues to the government as any body else.Why this second class treatment ??.ASI is trying to throw me out with an act which on the surface states that they would not disturb already existing residents but on the other hand they choke me to death. This is very unfair and this has resulted in the agitations and resistance.

Now the ASI is trying to paint a picture that the people of this town are against the preservation and conservation.This is totally false and if you trace back you can see that this town has voluntarily in the past given land in and around the monuments for preservation.

The solution:

ASI should drop the old plan of evicting Mamallapuram.I heard from the ASI that the regulated area in Mamallapuram is being expanded with a new buffer zone.They should come up with a plan that includes the people of this town and use the people to help conservation  .They should use them as custodians .I can talk to the people of this town to form a body that acts as a self regulatory body and the buildings of this town can be painted in one color or the facia of the buildings can be made uniform.

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